Pure Powder's Ski Blog

Call +44 (0)20 7736 8191


Chugach Powder Guides – The Independent (15th October 2011)

Tommy Moe, the 1994 Olympic downhill champion, is skiing fluently on steep terrain on a descent called Bermuda Triangle in the Alaskan wilderness. Yet he’s on one ski, and clutching a broken pole. And it’s all my fault. I’m the one who broke a pole, and lost a ski. As a “guest” guide with Chugach Powder Guides, he’s looking after me to a fault.

Conditions are superb but a bit unstable, as I just discovered. I triggered a big slide of snow and took a couple of somersaults, losing a ski in the process. In these cases, it’s safer to leave the ski wherever it is, get back in the helicopter, and leave quickly. There are plenty more runs to be skied where conditions are more stable. Moe insists on giving me his ski and one of his poles. “Your lost ski is a gift to the snow gods,” he says cheerfully. But then, Moe is always cheerful.

There could be no complaints. We’d had a marvellous and thrilling day in near-perfect conditions, with Tommy urging us on. “Slay that snow!” he’d cry. “It’s diamond dust! It’s mystical out there!” Occasionally, when wisps of cloud drifted across our tracks, he’d say: “It’s misty and mellow.” And when we occasionally hit the wrong side of a long, flowing gully and found the snow had a hard, difficult-to-ski surface, which caused our skis to make a rasping sound, he’d say: “That’s the crust talking to you! Let’s switch to the other side of the gully.” And sure enough, once we’ve switched sides, the snow is sublime.

Then there’s Scott. Like all heli-skiing pilots, he combines great skill with seemingly effortless fun as he chucks his machine around the sky. But on one occasion he lands “astride” a corniced ridge, leaving us feeling as though we are on big see-saw or rocking chair as the five of us (four skiers plus Moe) clamber gingerly out. “Wow!” I say, naively, as he the helicopter takes off sideways. “Did he mean to do that?” As if he had landed there by accident. “Yup,” says Moe. “He’s good. He got us in there!”

These days, Moe has a variety of jobs. He’s a ski ambassador for Jackson Hole, Wyoming and he also guides for Chugach Powder Guides. This enterprise is partly based at Girdwood, an old gold-rush camp in the state’s only serious ski area, Alyeska. It also has an outpost at the remote Tordrillo Mountain Lodge, tucked between Mount McKinley (America’s highest peak at 20,327ft) and the smouldering volcanic peaks of Mount Gerdine (11,258ft) and Mount Torbert (11,413ft). Here there’s not just heli-skiing, but summer skiing too. And something called “Kings and Corn”, a combination of spring skiing and salmon fishing.

Back at Girdwood, a spectacular hour-long flight away in a fixed-wing aircraft, the weather has changed. “It’s soggy dog weather,” says Moe. “Pretty typical Girdwood weather. It’s moist out there – you can almost smell the sea.” But Chugach Power Guides have a great Plan B to cope with Alaska’s notorious meteorological quirkiness: two “all-weather” snowcats. Unlike the helicopter, these cats are always on back-up duty, even in the foulest of conditions. Some guests opt to cat-ski the whole week – it’s cheaper than heli-skiing. But should the weather clear later – by 2pm at the latest – there are arrangements for cat-skiers who would really rather be heli-skiing to be picked up on the mountain and given the chance of a few heli-drops.

Each morning, the guide company appeals to its guests to be to ready to fly sharp at 10am. “Please be on time with all your gear,” it urges. “Your delay delays everyone.” But when the weather grounds the helicopter, this desire for promptness can lead to a series of holding episodes. Sometimes it’s a question of “hurry up and wait”. If you’ve had a late night, or you’re still tired from the previous day’s exertions, you can even grab 40 winks in your room, still in your ski clothes, like a Second World War pilot on stand-by to scramble.

It’s always worth waiting for. Out in the wilderness of the Chugach mountains is some of the best heli-skiing around. That doesn’t mean it’s the steepest, although Alaska is known for its fearsomely steep terrain. Not everyone wants to take their lives into their hands to ski the places only professionals and gung-ho amateurs dare to go. To attract a broader range of skiers, the options need to include terrain that mortals such as myself can cope with. There’s hardly a shortage of heli-skiing operations, with several flying from the Valdez area (Alaska’s traditional heli-skiing centre), Haines, and Girdwood, where I was based.

When heli-skiing got started in Alaska in the 1980s, some of the original pilots included Vietnam veterans. One of the pioneers, Chet Simmons, carried a gun which he kept on the seat next to him. His helicopter was his number one priority. It’s said that if anyone threatened its safety – or his – the gun was ready.

“This heli-skiing thing in Alaska blew up into a wonderful thing,” he said. “People from all over the world started coming. And they’re still coming. In the good old days there were no rules. We’d take you wherever you wanted to go; it was up to us to thrill you. It was up to you to get back to somewhere we could meet you. The great thing is you’re working with happy people all the time – and that can’t help but rub off on you. The only unhappy heli-skiers are the ones who run out of money.”

Travel essentials

Getting there

Anchorage is no longer connected directly to UK airports. The main gateway is Seattle, served daily from Heathrow by British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com). Other possible gateways include Vancouver and Chicago.

Skiing there

Pure Powder (020-7736 8191; purepowder.com) offers five-day trips with Chugach Powder Guides at their Girdwood base in Alyeska ski resort. Priced from $5,050 (£3,367) per person, based on two sharing, including five days of heli-skiing, six nights of accommodation in the Alyeska Resort, and ground transfers from Anchorage. Meals, drinks and international flights are not included in the price.

Posted by: Suzy Small

Mastering Off-Piste Skiing: An Introductory Guide

  For many thrill seekers, the tame slopes of a ski resort do not offer the excitement they’re looking for – this is where off-piste skiing offers an excellent alternative. The popularity of this adventure-based sport has increased over the past couple of years as skiing has become more accessible to more people. And yet, […]

Posted by: Samantha

Helicopter Skiing: The Ultimate Adrenaline Rush

  If you are interested in undertaking an outdoor adventure like no other, helicopter skiing may be the perfect option for you. Helicopter skiing involves off-piste, downhill skiing with the added thrill of a helicopter trip to reach untouched backcountry terrain.   Perhaps breathtaking views and an exhilarating experience are what you are after? If […]

Posted by: Samantha

About Heli Skiing: Myths And Misconceptions

  For those of you who have already had the chance to head out on your very own heli skiing excursion, you will know what to expect when embarking on your next adventure. For those who have not, this brief guide is for you – we will clear up some common misconceptions regarding heli skiing, […]

Posted by: Samantha

Heli Skiing: Prepare For An Unforgettable Trip

  In the past, heli skiing used to be a sport that only those adventurous few who could afford the exorbitant cost could enjoy. However, more recently, with the help of companies like Pure Powder, the sport has become more accessible than ever. Today more and more avid skiers are being introduced to and partaking […]

Posted by: Samantha

Plan An Unforgettable Off-Piste Skiing Trip

  If you are eager to set off on an unforgettable off-piste skiing trip, then you have come to the right place. Pure Powder is one of the best ski specialists based in the UK, but we organise off-piste ski adventures all around the world. In this quick read, we will cover some essential information […]

Posted by: Samantha

A Comprehensive Guide To Heli Ski Preparations

  Let’s get into the ins and outs of trip preparation for your next heli ski adventure! At Pure Powder, we take care of all the logistical aspects of your skiing experience, but there are a few things you can do from your side to make sure that you kick off the excursion as prepared […]

Posted by: Samantha

Helicopter Skiing vs Resort Skiing: A Comparison Of Skiing Experiences

  Over the past few years, there has been a rapid rise in the popularity of helicopter skiing. Spurred ever onwards by this increased interest in the sport, Pure Powder strives to make heli skiing an accessible activity for skiing novices and veterans alike. With helicopter skiing now more accessible than ever, avid adventurers have […]

Posted by: Samantha

Steep Heli Skiing: Exploring Alaska

  If real thrills are what you’re searching for, heli skiing with Pure Powder is the way to go. We organise heli skiing trips all over the globe, tailoring each experience to your level of expertise. For the experienced skiers looking for an adrenaline rush, Alaska is the holy grail of pure skiing freedom.   […]

Posted by: Samantha

Heli Ski Gear Guide: Must-Have Skiing Equipment

  If you have ever participated in a heli ski experience, you will know that having the right equipment is essential. Not only does the heli ski gear protect you from the elements out in the backcountry, but it can also improve the entire experience overall. Regarding heli ski gear, experienced skiers stick to functional […]

Posted by: Samantha

Incredible Heli Skiing Destinations

  If you are considering setting off on your very first heli skiing adventure, allow us to walk you through some of the amazing options you have at your disposal! In this brief guide, we will have a look at a few different heli ski destinations and consider what makes each of them unique.   […]

Posted by: Samantha

Off-Piste Skiing: Embrace The Freedom Of Untracked Slopes

  Very few sensations can be compared to the feeling of off-piste skiing in deep powder snow. If you have yet to throw yourself into one of these incredible ski excursions, allow us to fill you in on the basics of off-piste skiing. In this brief guide, we will cover what exactly an off-piste skiing […]

Posted by: Samantha

Helicopter Skiing: The Ultimate Alpine Experience

  Helicopter skiing is a great way to take your ski experience to the next level. In this brief guide, we will explain the differences between our tailored heli skiing excursions and your typical ski getaway. Of course, this is not to say that a standard resort skiing trip cannot be a great experience, but […]

Posted by: Samantha

Some Useful Advice For Your Heli Skiing Adventure

  As exciting as a heli skiing trip surely is, it is always best to go prepared. In this quick read, we will walk you through a few different aspects of our heli skiing adventures, arming you with everything you need to know about heli skiing before you embark on your trip.   When you […]

Posted by: Samantha

Best Heli Skiing In Canada: Make Your Next Adventure Unforgettable

  CMH Heli Skiing offers not only the best heli skiing in Canada, but some of the best off-piste skiing adventures in the world. The interior ranges of western British Columbia, Canada have been hailed as the Mecca of heli skiing excursions, and for good reason. There is no shortage of choice with Canadian Mountain […]

Posted by: Samantha

Exploring The Heli Ski World: An Introductory Guide

  When hearing the term “heli ski”, peoples’ minds often wander to the world of action movies. The word may evoke images of James Bond or Jason Bourne leaping off a helicopter several feet in the air onto a steep slope, followed by villains, as they expertly manoeuvre their way down death-defying heights and avoiding […]

Posted by: Samantha

Off-Piste Skiing: Your Questions Answered

  If taking on challenging terrain sounds like a thrilling adventure, then off-piste skiing may just be the ideal outdoor sport for you. Venturing outside the boundaries of standard ski resorts can be a rewarding experience, allowing you to leave behind the groomed slopes and instead make tracks across the fresh snow of the backcountry. […]

Posted by: Samantha

Heli Skiing: Everything You Need To Know

  Heli skiing is an invigorating outdoor sport involving breathtaking views from remote backcountry slopes. Whether you are an excited first-time/beginner skier or a seasoned skier looking for a new challenge, heli skiing has something to offer. In this quick read, we will be covering everything you need to know about heli skiing.   If […]

Posted by: Samantha

Pure Powder’s Skiing Resort Guide: Whistler/Blackcomb

Location: Most famously known as just Whistler, Whistler and Blackcomb are two mountains that sit side by side and make up Canada’s biggest resort. Together they make up a whopping 8,171 acres of terrain, split between pisted runs, Alpine bowls and glaciers. Whistler Village is at the base of Whistler, the hub of the village […]

Posted by: Georgie Knox

Pure Powder’s Skiing Resort Guide: Silver Star

Location: Located in the stunning Okanagan Valley, Silver Star is British Colombia’s fourth largest ski resort where you can expect the famous champagne powder we all know and love due to being further west. The varied terrain spreads over 3,282 acres and attracts every kind of skier. Getting there: Silver Star is extremely easy to get […]

Posted by: Zillah Bell

Pure Powder’s Skiing Resort Guide: Sun Peaks

Location: Sun Peaks is the second biggest ski area in Canada, behind Whistler. It is the perfect warm up destination for anyone who is heli skiing at CMH’s Cariboos Lodge. Getting there: Sun Peaks is located in the heart of British Columbia, only a 45 minute drive from Kamloops and less than an hour by […]

Posted by: Zillah Bell